6 FAQ's

Problems with your floor?

One frequent occurring matter landing in our inbox or phoned about seems to be encountering a quality problem with the wood flooring bought.

Product of nature

Some online retailers pride themselves on sending out free samples of wooden flooring. We on the other hand know a tiny sample can and will never show you the rich natural variety any wooden floor has. The tiny sample sent out to you by others could be pre-selected on appearance - for instance one tiny knot when you select a rustic grade.
Basing your purchase decision on just such a tiny sample is asking for problems......

Read more

Introducing: Wood You Like's Unique Gift Vouchers

Running up to Christmas - problem 1

When the Mid Winter Deals were announced last week, a lady ventured into our Charing showroom, eager to take advantage of this deal. The natural wooden floor she had her heart set on - Prime Oak small plait, one of the design parquet patterns we do - would suit her plans for redecorating one of the larger "drawing rooms" in her property.

The problem she encountered was an absent husband, who - as we all can guess - had to give his "approval" on the decision by at least having seen the large sample in our showroom too. His busy diary, specially during this busy "running up to Christmas rather quickly" period, did not seem to give him the opportunity to do so before the New Year, when the Mid Winter Deal would have been expired.

Running up to Christmas - problem 2

We also received a phone call from a excited DIY-er who suddenly realised Christmas is only two weeks away. His problem: having promised "her who must be obeyed" - his expression, not ours - to have the new natural wooden floor sorted before the festivities started. That promise had been made 4 months ago, before he had started his various projects on the house, estimating he got plenty of time to have everything ready for the floor to be bought and installed way before then.

And as we all know, projects do tend to fill up more time than originally estimated, so he is now running out of time and running out of excuses for the "misses".
She'd study our Online Full Colour Natural Wooden Flooring Brochures for months now and knows exactly what wood-species and finish she wants, but her DIY husband still can't tell her which floor type (15 or 20mm) he prefers to have. That depends on some issues with the underfloor he has to sort out before that decision can be made.
Could we help out? To keep in her good books, he has to show he's definitely "on the case" and hasn't forgotten his promise to her.

Problem 3 - what products?

An elderly dad, recently retired, called us also in regards of a problem, this time nothing to do with Christmas.

His son had recently moved into a small council house and after ripping out the old carpets, he - helping his son with some decoration - had discovered an original mosaic floor in rather good nick underneath. Searching the Internet had brought them to our "7 Easy Steps" guide to repair and restore any original parquet floor.

Plans to do so are afoot and dad wants to be involved with the preparations for this, but does not know what products his son needs or wants. Dad is adamant he should at least contribute to the costs, since the move has already cost his son more than originally planned (as they do, Murphy's Law at work).

One simple and stress-free solution: Unique Gift Vouchers

Specimen of Wood You Like's Unique Gift Vouchers

If Mrs C, with her very busy husband, purchases the £250.00 Unique Gift Voucher for him before the end of this month, the Mid Winter Deal will extend till 31.01.2012 for them. That's a whole calender month longer to take advantage of these unique deals.

Mr Z, fearing the wrath of his "Misses" can purchase any of the vouchers, which will be printed on quality paper and show her - leaving the Unique gift Voucher underneath the Christmas tree - he's definitely on the case.
(Royal Mail's "Beat the Christmas Rush" promises to delivery any 1 st class mail UK main land posted on or before Tuesday 20.12.11 on or before Christmas Eve.)

And Mr L's son would be very happy to receive an Unique Gift Voucher of £ 75.00 for the restoration materials of his own choice, which he can use when ordering the quality products in Wood You Like's secure online shop.

The Vouchers come in 3 values: £ 75.00 - £ 125.00 and £ 250.00
Each has an Unique Voucher Reference and an Unique Code. The latter is a one-off discount code to be used in our online showroom. Each voucher keeps its value for 6 months after the date of issue, but is not redeemable against cash. The vouchers can either be printed on high quality paper and posted - mind the Christmas cut-off point of Royal Mail - or emailed as PDF file.

Make someones Christmas even more special, gift them one of Wood You Like's Unique Gift Vouchers! Call 01233 - 713725 today or purchase the voucher(s) of your choice in our secure online shop now.

Hurry, order before 20.12.11 1pm to have your voucher posted first class in time for Christmas!

Rather tired and in need of revitalisation parquet floor

DIY conversation in our email inbox: (do you have a question yourself - use this form to ask us)

Old wear pattern is now a "feature"of the floor


Hello, we have a parquet floor in our hallway that was sanded and varnished 10/12 years ago and is now rather tired and in need of revitalisation, especially since we have rearranged the furniture and the old wear pattern is now a "feature"of the floor.

Obviously we could just sand it down and do the same again, but I would like to know whether we could apply a wax finish instead once we have stripped it back - it is a 1950s house and I think the flooring is oak; I am planning on doing the job myself, but would appreciate some expert guidance as to whether a change of finish will produce good (or hopefully even better!) results.

Many thanks, Sandra A

The 7 Steps

Hi Sandra

Thank you for your question. We are "oil" people ourselves and know from experience an HardWaxOil finish will bring out your floor's character much better than varnish, plus will be easier to keep beautiful without too much trouble.
Have you read through our 7 Easy Steps?:

What materials?

Yes, I have read the Easy Steps - I think I would probably join in on step 5 as our floor is perfectly sound, just worn.
I really wanted to check that the varnish can be sufficiently removed by sanding and that it hasn't penetrated deep down in the wood in a way that would stop oil soaking in should we decide to change the finish. It as a relatively small area - about 14 sq m - what tools and materials (apart from hiring sanders) would you recommend we use?

Recommended products

Saicos HardWaxOil and Wax-care with simple polish/hwo applicator

Varnish can normally be sanded off rather easy - you could even decide to start with grit 80 instead of 40. Try this out, it will save you time and sanding belts.

Saicos HardWaxOil is a very good product, and comes in 4 sheens (Satin-mat the most popular one still)

To apply the two coats of HWO you can use our polish applicator

If there are obvious gaps between individual blocks you could decide to fill these, using a wood-filler:

Hope this helps?

New "Ask Us" system

Introducing Wood You Like's brand new Support Service:

How Can We Help?


Pop your question in the new form, we will search our database of Recently Asked Questions first:


before presenting you with a new - larger - form to write your specific question in - just get in touch.

After we receive your question, by email, we will answer it as soon as we can during normal working hours.

The advantages of our new Support System are:

  • you can keep track of the status of your question online.
  • if needed, you can upload images or other files to give us more details of your question
  • you can reply either online or through email - no matter which option you use, your reply will land in our inbox almost immediately.
  • some of the questions we encounter will be added to our new Recently Asked Questions, a growing Knowledge Base on all matters relating to natural wooden flooring for you and others.

Wood You Like, at your service!

Don't use ammonium to clean Oak floors

A worried lady called us with the following story:

In her kitchen an Oak floor had been installed (wood-engineered) and, as can happen in areas where cooking is done, in front of the cooker splashes of grease had marked to floor. Knowing how well ammonium can cut through grease she'd used some on a cloth and rubbed away the solidified grease stain.

Only to discover a few hours later the Oak in the treated spot had turned a shade darker than the surrounding area!

Oak and Ammonium - think old cow sheds


(Image from Farming in France blog)

Oak contains tannic acid and, when exposed to ammonium, this acid reacts and becomes darker. It's natural reaction, just think of old cow-sheds, barns or old train cattle wagons.

Original Oak from any place where cattle has been for a long while is well known for its very dark colouring. Trying to sand the beams or boards bare to expose the blond wood again is very difficult to do, because years and years of being "exposed" to cattle with their wee, containing ammonium, this natural discolouration has penetrated deeply in the wood, not just stained the surface.


This natural process is still being used (in controlled and safe circumstances - SO DON'T TRY THIS AT HOME!) to produce "smoked" Oak. Mostly done in air-thight chambers in a factory, exposing untreated Oak to ammonium vapours for hours. The amount of tannic acid in the Oak, combined with more or less time in this "smoking chamber" determines the natural darkness of the boards.
Another name for this process is "fumed" Oak (from the French word fumé).

In the "olden days" some exceptional specialist floor companies did "smoke on site", using very strong ammonium in a bare room, sealing off all doors, windows etc. Any draft coming in to the room while this "not suitable for human exposure" was in process would affect the result. And nothing else in the room could be made of Oak, it would get darker too. So, once again: DON'T TRY THIS AT HOME!

Note: some wood floors are incorrectly branded - excuse the pun - as smoked or fumed and only have been treated/stained with a colour to resemble this natural effect. The way to find out is to check if the colouring is only "skin-deep" - not even 1mm in the wood - or truly in the wood, at least 1 - 2 mm deep.


All Wood You Like's Smoked Oak floors are definitely been in the "smoking chamber".

Would spilling cleaning ammonium colour my Oak floor too?

No, not that easily - IF the wood floor has been maintained regularly to keep the wear and tear layer in proper condition.

The floor in question had not been maintained for a year, and because the area in front of the cooker had had the most "traffic" the protective finish was rather reduced, enabling the ammonium to react with the "bare" wood.

Which floorboard thickness to select: when and why

With so many different floor types to chose from, we know it can sometimes be rather a challenge to know which one to go for and which ones to avoid.
We can't select your ultimate look of the floor, grades and finishes are down to personal taste after all, but we can give you a guideline in determining what floorboard thickness you can get away with to create the right ambiance in your home without going "over board".

Traffic and levelness

Two main considerations to keep in mind when deciding between the main 3 floorboard thickness now commonly available in the market: expected traffic over the floor and the levelness you have under the floor. A third consideration is Underfloor Heating (UFH)

13/3 boards (13mm total with 3mm Solid top layer)

Traffic: light to normal
bedroom, study, tv-room
homes without small children or big pets
homes with "semi-retired" owners

Levelness: flat to very gentle slope
10mm thick boards will flex (bounce) when the underfloor suddenly dips.

: no

15/4 boards (15mm total with 4mm Solid top layer)

Traffic: normal to heavy
normal household
small offices, specialised small retailers/shops (5 - 6 visitors a day), reception areas

Levelness: flat to slightly uneven
15mm can take on more unevenness without flexing, slopes should not be more than 3mm per meter and in one direction

UFH: yes on concrete or level plywood floor using flexible adhesive to fully bond the floor - no on battens

20/6 boards (20mm total with 6mm Solid top layer)

Traffic: heavy to intense
busy households
large and busy offices, shops and other commercial premises with many visitors/shoppers a day
village & school halls
gyms and dance schools

Levelness: slightly uneven to directly onto joist
20mm is load bearing and - depending on the backing used - boards are very rigid

UFH: definitely yes

Price Range: £ 55.00 - 76.00 ex VAT per sq m

Examples of choice - same grade, same finish

Floorboards 10mm thick, Oak Rustic, oiled natural

13/3 Rustic Oak, oiled natural

Floorboards 15mm thick, Oak Rustic, oiled natural

15/4 Rustic Oak, oiled natural

Floorboards 20mm thick, Oak Rustic, oiled natural

20/6 Rustic Oak, oiled natural

Floorboards 10mm thick, Oak Nature, oiled natural

13/4 Oak Character, oiled natural

Floorboards 15mm thick, Oak Nature, oiled natural

15/4 Oak Character, oiled natural

Floorboards 20mm thick, Oak Nature, oiled natural

20/6 Oak Character, oiled natural

See more options

You can see many of the options in our online shop

Too hot to handle

We love to sell a wooden floor, to anyone who enquirs after one of our quality products. It's our business, so no surprise there then.

But sometimes you have to say: no, sorry, in this situation we strongly advice against installing a wooden floor.

Wood You Like's speciality - design parquet flooring

This week a lovely couple came to our showroom to look at our design parquet floors. Oak Rustic herringbone was firmly on their mind, which is of course a lovely choice. With them I discussed how we would install the wood blocks on their concrete underfloor: first a subfloor of Oak Industrial Grade mosaic on to which the individual wood blocks would be glued and pinned down in the required pattern. Sanding, filling and applying a natural HardWaxOil finish would follow the works.

The estimated measurements of the area (large hallway) were translated into a hand-written quote and an appointment for Ton to carry out a survey, to measure more precise and check the underfloor, was made for today (Friday 26.11.10).

After the survey Ton returned to our showroom, where normally all the details are turned into a specified quotation, mailed (or emailed) as soon as possible to the client. Except today it didn't go that way, Ton discovered the concrete floor was "too hot to handle"!

When winter exposes a "weak link"

Too hot to handle, central heating pipes blocking wood floor installation

The concrete was hot enough to bake an egg on it! Presumably, when installing the central heating many years ago, not enough insulation was used between the water pipes and the concrete surface, or the pipes were not laid deep enough. Makes you wonder sometimes where British Building Standards stand for or why some plumbers get away with this type of shoddy workmanship.

Installing a wooden floor which needs to be glued down in this situation would end in tears. The adhesive will sooner or later (sooner no doubt) fail and blocks will start to come loose and/or shrink and buckle. Ton advised them to consider tiles, which are better suited for these "hot" circumstances. The client were both disappointed and glad this issue had come to light.

If the survey had taken place in Summer this "too hot to handle" situation had not come to light. Central heating works completely different than water underfloor heating systems, where the temperature of the water in the pipes is set to a maximum in order not to cause problems to the floor covering and is switched on continuously. Central heating water pipes transport hot water to the radiators when the demand is there, getting really hot and then again cooling down, making any wood floor very, very nervous.

So, when your floor is installed in Summer and starts behaving strangely at some places when the central heating is switched on, check the surface temperature to see if hot water pipes are running beneath it before you call your fitter back to complain. Although all professional fitters try to for see all situations, some tricky situations come only to light when you least expect them. And if you know water pipes could be running close to the concrete surface: tell your installer, no matter what the season is.

Solid wood floors and UFH: take care

DIY conversation in our email inbox: (do you have a question yourself - use this form to ask us)

When installing Underfloor heating systems and deciding on the floor covering on top, many recommend to use Wood-Engineered flooring. These types of boards are more stable and can handle the changes in both temperature and air humidity better than solid wood floorboards (solid design parquet is a different matter all together).

When we received the following question we advised to take care - it is not impossible to install solid wooden floorboards on UFH systems but there's a but....

Random width boards

"This is a new build & we plan to lay solid oak floorboards (random widths) onto a self-levelled screed. There is underfloor heating & the screed is well dried out now. We've been told that gluing is the way to go, but reading thru some comments on your site I'm getting questions ... can we put the glue just into the groove thereby effectively having a floating floor? or do the boards need to be glued underneath? do we need floorboard crampers or could we use some softwood and rubber mallet?"

Words of caution

Thank you for your question. With wooden floors and UFH it is recommended to fully bond the floor to the concrete underfloor to avoid air gaps. For this you should use flexible adhesive that is suitable to be used on UFH.

Word of caution: UFH and solid wood floors are only agreeable when the solid floorboards are narrow. Otherwise there is a great chance the floor will shrink too much during the heating season.
Wood-Engineered floors are better suited in this situation due to their construction, see our Duoplank range page for more details.

"Many thanks for this Karin. Yes of course, very silly of me, couldn't do 'floating' as it would compromise the UFH!
We've had the boards for over 12 months indoors, they look pretty good ie not bendy.
Max width 160mm - would you say?"

160mm is rather wide, it depends on the other sizes and the number of 160mm boards. Try to keep away from installing two wide boards next to each other and leave a wide enough expansion gap all around.

"The widths are 100; 120; 140;160 up to 200mm. The wider ones we'll keep for upstairs to nail.
My other question tho is do we need the crampers or could we knock them 'home' with a long piece of soft wood & rubber mallet? "

100, 120 and 140mm should be ok, as said before, try to avoid placing 2 x 160 or even 1 x 140 next 1 x 160mm and you should be alright.

If the quality of the T&G is good you won't need crampers, just "knock" them home indeed.

I take the liberty to also email you - separate email through our automated system - our special leaflet with how to treat your UFH before, during and after installing a wooden floor.

"Thanks very much for your comments. We have had the solid oak flooring for a few months now. It's getting the time to do it."

Further info - because it's summer


When you install a wooden floor over an Underfloor Heating System in the summer months you often don't have the system switched on (if it is a new system, it will have had its pressure test to check for leaks no doubt). Our special leaflet - see link above - tells you how to start up the system gradually before installing the wood floor.
Doing this before installation when the temperature outside has reach Mediterranean level would be a bit OTT indeed.

Instead, raise the temperature of your UFH system gradually once the Autumn arrives, so your wooden floor (all wooden floors) can adjust gradually to the changes in "climate".

Ash Wood-Engineered floor - DIY-er Martcho

As authors of the Wooden Floor Installation Manual we are always eager to hear how DIY-ers get on with installing their wooden floor with a little help from our manual.

Extra advice

Through our online "Ask Advice" form we received a question about using a specific underlayment from a Dutch manufacturer. The DIY-er in question, Martcho based in South-East England, was strapped for time and could therefore not level out his whole floor using self-leveling compound, just small parts. To get the floor more level in the quickest of times, he needed the special underlayment to try to diminish the problem.
The only product seemingly available in the UK from this manufacturer was in our opinion more suited for laminate flooring than for the wood-engineered floor Martcho was planning to install.

In the end he did manage to source the more suitable type of underlayment from the same Dutch manufacturer and emailed us the following, including pictures of the end result:

Hi Karin
It is almost complete, the screed was dry, but not as level as wanted or hoped. The flooring is laid, cut the doors next week, put the skiring and the rest of the door mouldings and voila - job done. I managed to get the Paladin underlay as you advised.
The floor seems to sag a bit here and there but I hope not too much. I guess it will settle a bit and with the weight of the furniture. And it looks fantastic. The missus is very happy.

Best Regards,


"Wild Ash"


Ash, an European wood-species can have a very "wild" colour difference between the boards, from "mother of pearl" spots to dark brown splashes


It does create a very lively floor though.

Send in your own pictures and stories

If you purchased the "Wooden Floor Installation Manual" too (paperback and/or E-version) and have finished your floor, you're also more than welcome to submit your pictures.

We are creating a growing "show-case" of DIY results with a little help from our manual. As stated in our manual: installing a wooden floor is not rocket science, and these show-cases are the proof in the pudding.

First-aid for floor covering problems, from carpet, rugs to wood

Moving home is stressful enough without additional floor covering problems to solve!


The last thing you want when finally getting the key of your new home is long lasting floor problems. You already have so many other things on your mind and on your ever growing "to-do-list":

* packing,
* scheduling the home-movers,
* contacting all utility suppliers,
* informing every organisation of your new address etc etc etc.

And it feels as if everything needs to be done right now, this minute!

Discovering stains on the carpet, a dull looking wooden floor or even getting a suspicion there might be carpet moths on the lose is then something you can definitely do without. Some problems do need solving immediately before your own furniture moves in, others can wait a bit longer. Perhaps you even discovered an original parquet/mosaic wooden floor underneath the carpets, and are wondering how to bring back its old luster?

Below you can find some first-aid tips on how to tackle the most common problems, plus if you like you can request our comprehensive report with further tips, recommended preventive measurements and even long term solutions.
Read on.......

Creative with herringbone blocks

Standard wood blocks are 9 times out of 10 used to create a herringbone pattern in a room. Why? Because that's what we know from the olden time and it is therefore one of the best known design parquet patterns.

Solid wood blocks in herringbone pattern, one of Wood You Like's specialities

As you can see in the above image, this pattern really suits a square or rectangular room, making it even more spacier and lively with all the individual small blocks (10 x 71 x 284mm).

Not a rule set in stone: be creative

There's almost no limit to the designs you can create with Wood You Like's standard wood blocks

The beauty of having individual blocks is that you can easily create a design that suits an awkward space better than a herringbone would. One of our DIY design parquet clients tackled his hallway in a creative way shown here. The specific measurements of the standard blocks enabled him to design a large mosaic (284/71 = 4) creating a playful and impressive result most suited to the shape of the hallway.

Standard wood blocks from our Design Parquet manufacturer always come in specific measurements which allow you to be as creative as need be. Besides the 71 x 284 there are the
71 x 355 (5 x 71)
90 x 360 (4 x 90) and
90 x 450 (5 x 90)

Running comments from our proud client during and after the installation, sanding and finishing of his "bespoke" design floor:

"I glued the final pieces in place this morning and I’m very pleased with the results. It took longer than I expected because of the cutting around the 5 doorways and the stairs but I have an excellent mitre saw which proved invaluable. I have the sanding machines arriving on Saturday and will be finished sometime over the weekend.

Had a busy Bank Holiday and I didn’t manage to waxoil the floor until Tuesday and I’m very pleased with the colour.
I found the Trio sander very nice to work with.
I just have to finish fixing skirtings, carpets and thresholds.

Thanks for your help and advice."

Richard O - London

At your service.
If you have your own project in mind and are wondering how to tackle a not so square and rectangular room, why not design your own "bespoke" wood blocks pattern? Let your creativity flow.

Call us on 01233 - 713725 to discuss your options, prices and lead times.

Why old methods still work

DIY conversation in our email inbox: (do you have a question yourself - use this form to ask us)

Dull floor after wood worm treatment


Hi, can you advise please?

I have a herringbone parquet wood floor in my entrance hall and hallway in my house that was built about 60 years ago. Recently I was redecorating the entrance hall and noticed some woodworm flight holes in areas of the entrance hall: some clearly old and some newer looking ones.
The specialist treatment I applied needed the surface coat to be stripped away, which I did on the area affected (about a dozen tiles covering about 1 sq m). I did this by stripping and sanding and then treating.

However, I am puzzled on how to get back to a matching finish now that I have completed the treatment. It is not a polyurethane varnish as a drop of water leaves a white mark. But danish oil does not give any shine and floor wax does not seem to bring up the shine and lustre. Previous to my treatment, the floor was occasionally polished by my wife with a wax polish. But this, on a trial area, on its own wont bring the surface condition back. Your site looks very informative and helpful. Any advice would be welcome. My local paint shop simply say buy some satin polyurethane varnish, but I am careful about this.

In essence, I don't really want to sand the whole floor down if I can help it.

Thanks, Ian

Old fashion does not always mean obsolete


When a floor is sanded bare it will take a few coats of wax before it comes back to its shine and lustre. If the floor always has been polished with this wax it would indeed be best to treat the sanded part with this wax too but it might take a bit longer to give you the result you are looking/hoping for.

Also bare in mind that when an existing floor is sanded it will lose its matured patina and will show slight colour differences between non-sanded and sanded parts of the floor. This will gradually "fade" to the same appearance.

Treat the sanded part with wax, buff it in and give the floor time to absorb it. Then treat it again one or two days later in the same way. Repeat this a few times, but make sure the floor has time to absorb it before you apply the next coat of wax otherwise you'll end with a sticky mess.

Hope this makes sense?

Let us know how you get on. Remember, it's taken your floor a long time to get its authentic shine and lustre and these things do take time (us modern humans would prefer everything to be done/finished/right yesterday, but nature takes it time to give you the best )

Karin - Wood You LIke Ltd

Answered received:

Very many thanks for this advice. I was getting a bit despairing at getting back the look without considerable effort and expense.

I will have a go at your suggestions this weekend.

Best regards


And the result:

You asked for feedback on how I got on.

Well I started on Friday evening and followed your suggestion: particularly to leave it to absorb. The effect has been great. The luster is returning – although there are still patina differences between the areas.

I have repeated the treatment and as you say it does blend in better each time.

Many thanks indeed.


At your service, always more than happy to help out, even if it means re-instating old-fashion methods which now in these (ultra) modern times still prove their worth.

Solving 3 problems in one go: simple floors

One of the questions that landed in our inbox concerned that "old problem" of trying to find a budget solution where the existing type of underfloor threatened to put the whole project on hold.

Chipboard and short length solid oak flooring - a no no

Budget range (below £35.00 ex VAT) in Solid Oak floorboards 9 times out of 10 comes in a box with random length boards. Random between 300 or 400 - 1200mm long. On its own nothing wrong with this, however most of these budget boxes contain over 50% short - very short - lengths and only one or two long ones (if you're lucky). These types of floors should not be installed floating because you will have too many joints in the whole floor, working like hinges and making your floor unstable, prone to move. Fully bonding with flexible adhesive or secret nailing is the solution.

Only, when you then discover your underfloor is cheap and cheerful chipboard you find yourself between a rock and a hard place. Modern adhesive does not bond with the moist repellent surface layer of the chipboard and nailing into this "wood-pulp" will not give you the strong fixing you need.

Budget alternatives in real wood

The person asking for advice really wants to replace his carpet with an easy to clean and anti-allergic floor covering mainly because to the number of animals they care for. Wooden floors are then indeed the best solutions: easy to clean, anti-allergic and simply beautiful.

When you find yourself between this rock and a hard-place due to the chipboard underfloor, why not opt for simple 2 or 3-strip wood-engineered flooring? All long boards, so can be installed floating without any problem, and most times within the same price range as these "cheap offers" in Solid Oak floorboards. Quality 3-strip floors have a total thickness of 14 - 15mm with a Solid top layer of 3.6 - 4mm

3 strip wood-engineered floor, simple real wood for every budget

2 or 3 strip flooring is available in many wood-species but like with most other wooden floor types, Oak is still the most popular (and therefore often the lowest in price).

Alternative 2: pre-oiled 10mm boards

Quality wood-veneer Oak flooring, real wood for any budget

Another budget alternative, especially for areas with low "traffic" such as bedrooms, for you would be the Basic 10/3: Oak top layer (3mm) on a high quality ply backing. Total thickness 10mm and available in many modern Oak finishes, from natural to white oiled or smoked for warm dark tones.
Again, long lengths for simple "Floating installation" without problems on chipboard - and of course other types of underfloors.

Basic wooden flooring gives you:

a real wood floor, easy maintenance and within your budget. Simples.

Call us on 01233 - 713725 to discuss your own budget requirements and we'll find the perfect wooden floor for you in our Basic Range.

The 18 x 120mm Solid Floor question

Wooden floors come in many types, wood-species, constructions, sizes, quality and prices. One of the more "common" ones is the 18mm thick Solid Oak floorboard, 120mm wide and with random lengths. Popular priced too at many DIY-sheds like B&Q, Wickes or even Floors2Go, but in our opinion the boxes in which they come should carry a big red exclamation mark on it: random lengths, nice but.... know what you are buying can restrict your choice in installation methods.

The problem is, the boxes do not come with that warning. So if you are in the same position as the person who asked the following question in regards of the "infamous" 18 x 120mm you might like to hear this too:

Question received:

Hello , Hope you can help me ? Ive just bought a new solid 120mm wide 18mm thick wooden floor to be fitted in the kitchen/dining room and the sub floor is concrete what would be the best way to fit the wooden floor?

Answer - includes warning

Thank you for your question. Question for you in return: does your floor come in so-called random length, for instance the known 300 - 1200mm? If so, you first have to check how many very short lengths are in a box.

If too many then it is not advisable to install such a floor using the floating method and it would be better to fully bond the floor with flexible adhesive to the level and dry concrete floor. See this article about the short end of the stick/board. Solid Floors - what to note

Hope this helps
Wood You Like Ltd

And flexible adhesive is - compared with combi-underlayment and a few bottles of PVAC-wood glue - higher in price, turning your "cheap" or cheaper wood floor into a more expensive (but not necessary better quality) floor.
See example of what's on "offer" here:


Would you care to count the number of long boards in the image above? Many short boards mean many joints = many hinges when you install this type of flooring floating, making your floor rather unstable and prone to movement.

Sheen and shine

Questions in the comment box of this blog are a great source of articles - it reflects the problems/thoughts and even dilemmas people can have. Like the question we received recently:

I want the floor to have a sheen/shine

We have had a wood floor laid fairly recently and it has been waxed, which is high maintenance if you want to keep it looking good. I want the floor to have a sheen/shine, would you use lacquer and if so can you over wax.

Old fashion solution

Wood You Like's old fashion buffing block to bring sheen to your oiled/waxed floor

Your solution might lay in our "old-fashion" 7kg cast iron buffing-block, making light work of the maintenance and making your floor looking really good with a shine. You don't need to apply wax or polish that often when you use a buffing block (and applying wax/polish too often can have the reverse effect on your floor, too much and a greasy, sticky layer will keep dust and dirt trapped).

If that's not what you have in mind than sanding the whole floor to remove all the wax - using a wax-remover first - and then apply a lacquer could be done, but in our opinion will not look as good or as long good as an oiled/waxed floor does.
(You cannot lacquer or varnish straight over an waxed/oiled floor!)

Hope this helps
Wood You Like Ltd

(Have a question? Submit it in the "comment box" or fill in this form to receive our answer by email.)

New narrow boards on existing floorboards: nail or float?

DIY conversation in our email inbox: (do you have a question yourself - use this form to ask us)

90mm x 18mm pre lacquered pine boards

At 17:56 20/03/2010, you wrote:

I am laying 90mm x 18mm pre lacquered pine boards over existing floorboards in my hall and wanted to lay in the opposite direction to existing boards. I am a bit confused over the best method of laying, secret nailing or glueing tongue and groove. If I nail as I am going in opposite direction to existing boards I will not be able to nail into joists but understand that the new boards may be too narrow to for gluing. Also can you assist in advising if I should lay an underlay and which type and thickness is best.

Secret nail in existing boards not only on joists

At 12:07 21/03/2010, Wood You Like Ltd wrote:

You are right, the width of your new boards are too narrow to use the standard floating method.
Secret nailing straight onto the existing floorboards (specially in the opposite direction) would work well - you nail the new boards every 20 - 25 cm into the existing floorboards, no real need to end up on a joist, presuming the existing floorboards are in good nick.
If you opt for this method then no underlayment is needed.

Alternatively you could use the self-adhesive underlayment Elastilon onto which the narrow new boards are stuck down.

Elastilon self-adhesive underlayment for wooden floors: the original product

When nailing - which underlayment?

At 14:19 26/03/2010, you wrote:

This has been extremely helpful. Had not considered self adhesive underlayment will do now.

If I do nail can I use an underlayment. I was considering a 3mm, this to help with noise and eliminating any small imperfections in existing floor.

When nailing - no underlayment!

At 15:42 26/03/2010, Wood You Like Ltd wrote:

Nailing and using underlayment is not really practical: the force and angle of the nail will compress the underlayment and render any effect of sound-insulation useless.
If there are only small imperfections in the floor, the 3mm Elastilon can tackle them - but don't regard it as a "filler".

More of these tips and standard practices etc can be found in our Wooden Floor Installation Manual

Hope this helps

Wooden Floor Installation Manual - everything you need to know about DIY wooden floors

Once more: battens - too low and your floor will rattle!

This subject seems to be a recurring "problem": battens on a concrete floor.

9mm battens

I am laying 21mm thick solid French oak tongue and groove floor boards on a stable 21-year-old concrete floor. I've been advised to fix battens to the floor and then nail the oak floor boards to the battens through each tongue. What I am unsure about is whether I need to lay any insulation between the battens and if so, what sort? The battens are 9mm thick - just enough to secure the boards to. The planks have been in the room for about 3 weeks to acclimatise.

Recommended height of battens: 50mm

Thank you for your question. Are the battens really only 9mm thick?? That's way to thin for this method of installing a wooden floor, the nails alone should be 50 - 60mm long for the best and long term problem free result - and on 9mm battens the nails will hit the concrete, turning your wooden floor into a rattling one.

Various options here - depending on the width of your floorboards

Install "floating" on a combi-underlayment glueing the T&G's correctly (only if your boards are 100mm or wider and the whole floor does have many long lengths)
Recommended reading on the subject of Solid Wooden Floors: Solid Floors - what to note
Glueing your floor down with flexible adhesive
Using self-adhesive underlayment like Elastilon
Or installing higher battens first (at least 50mm thick and preferable 75mm wide)

Hope this helps

Kind Regards
Wood You Like Ltd
(check out our new Wooden Floor Installation Manual)

Wood You Like's Wooden Floor Installation Manual - everything you need to know about DIY wooden floors

UFH and wooden flooring: it's all in the preparation!

Last week we received a question from a rather frustrated home-owner:

"Hi, I am having trouble in getting my floor leveled. Got the builders to remove the floor joists and lay concrete layer. I went on holiday post this and when i returned, builders suggested this was topped with insulation, and then followed by the UFH pipes. They say it was then topped by Latex screed, which by the time i came back was very unleveled and had cracks all over.

To get it to level, builders use self leveling compound wherever it was needed (in large parts), but to my dismay just after 10 days, the floor has started cracking and unleveling again because of these cracks.

I am so damn frustrated with all this leveling thing, and we have already got the engineered wood we want to lay on top of it. But my floor layer says, if he lays the wood on top of this floor, it will move quite a bit and be wobbly and also showed me the movement by placing a few pieces together.

I have no clue as to what we should be doing now, even though builders are very nice i guess they are clueless as well. They are thinking of topping it with another layer of some kind of mixture, and I am just concerned that with 2 layers already on top of UFH, a third layer of a compound, which if everything works ok will be topped by engineered wood - which will make the UFH pretty useless or extremely expensive to heat up the floor in my view.

Would you be able to advice what you think we did wrong and how can we get our floor to be leveled so the wood floor doesn't wobble and UFH remains effective too.

Thank you for your question and sorry to hear about your problems. However, very glad to read that your wooden floor fitter refuses to install the wood floor on this crumbling underfloor, 'cos he's absolutely right.

If the crumbling layer is patched up again your UFH system will never work properly - as I fear it will not do this anyway at the moment due to the cracks (patching up solutions on patched up solutions never works!)

A floor can be unlevel, but only 3mm maximum over 1 meter and only in one direction. Presumably your fitter plans to fully bond the floor to the concrete with flexible adhesive and if the floor is too unlevel (dips and hills) this will never work: there will be air-gaps underneath the wood everywhere, rendering your UFH system useless indeed.

I'm afraid you have to re-call your builders and tell them to start over with the screed - preferably back to the insulation. Your concrete/screed ontop of the UFH needs to be smooth and whole (no cracks!) in order to work and in order to provide a proper surface for your wood floor fitter.

Sorry we don't have better news for you and I recommend you also get advice from the manufacturer/supplier of the UFH system.


An installation of a wooden floor starts with the correct preparations, especially when there is new concrete or screed involved. Like in the case above, when you also add Underfloor Heating to the fro - a sound, dry and level concrete/screed surface is even more important. A defect surface will definitely mean a defect or at least inefficient working of the UFH.

Always get advice from the supplier/manufacturer of the UFH system about the correct preparations, follow this (have this followed by you builder) and prevent aggravation, frustration and extra costs and/or delays.

And never accept patching up solutions, no matter how nice or hard working your builder seems: it is bound to end in tears.


If you are thinking of using Underfloor Heating and install a wooden floor, request our start-up tips here.

From underlayment, to direction and thresholds

An 'live' example of "asking personal advice on wood", a conversation by email - see our form here

At 21:41 13/01/2010, you wrote:

Question: Hi I hope you can help me. This is a really stupid question and one that you'll be telling your mates down the pub for weeks to come!!! I'm about to lay an oak finished engineered floor in my hallway and I've bought some Timbermate Silentfloor Gold underlay. But I'm standing here scratching my head because I can't work out whether the gold side should face up or down!!!! Please could you help??? Thanks Ian

Hi Ian

Stupid questions don't exist, only stupid answers and even worse: not asking when you're in doubt

Rest assured, we scratch our heads too once in a while when thinking the manufacturer would make life easier for a fitter and produce the roll in such a way it is being rolled out with the bottom side down (and not as happens with some products you have to roll out the length you need and then turn it over because the roll is produced with the topside under!).

In your case the gold side should face down (according to the image of the manufacturer itself in their catalogue).

Hope this helps and here's hoping they rolled it up to make your life easy, because Timbermate can be quite heavy to handle.

At 13:24 14/01/2010, you wrote:

Hi Karin

Thank you very much for your advice and your very prompt reply. You’re right this stuff is very heavy! I had enough trouble carrying it from the car into the house, so laying it probably isn’t going to be much fun!!

Thanks again for your help.

Hi Ian

How are you getting on with the installation for your floor? Any problems or queries?

At 11:07 18/01/2010, you wrote:

Hi Karin

I intended to make a start this weekend but I’m afraid my ‘better half’ had other ideas and we ended up entertaining her family instead – ah well, maybe next weekend!!

But, since you ask, I’m wondering if I could perhaps ask your advice once more?
The hallway I am intending to install the timber flooring in is L-shaped. Obviously, the timber boards will fun lengthways along the longer branch of the ‘L’ and widthways along the shorter branch. At the end of the shorter branch is a small cloakroom in which I am also intending to install the new flooring. Do I stop at the flooring at doorway to the cloakroom install a threshold and run the boards in the cloakroom lengthways or do I keep the boards running width-ways in the cloakroom to match the part of the hallway immediately outside???

I’d be very interested in your opinion.
Very many thanks once again.

At 11:16 18/01/2010, Wood You Like Ltd wrote:

Hi Ian

The best plans to tend to go haywire during weekends

We always recommend to install a thresholds especially in small areas and cloakrooms (different temperature and humidity). Because of this you can decide for your self how to run the boards in the cloakroom, what looks most aesthetically in you (your wife's) eyes. The door of the cloakroom will be closed most of the time no doubt, so no 'clashing' with how the floor looks in connection areas.

Hope this helps

Have you had a look at our Installation manual?

Hi Ian

Any progress on the decisions about directions or have you completely finished the job already? If so, are you happy with the result, any problems encountered and tackled?

At 14:41 03/02/2010, you wrote:

Hi Karin

At last the job’s all done!!

I think it’s turned out OK and I’m really pleased with the results – it seems a shame to walk on it!!
The main problem I had was getting the individual boards really tightly together. I’d bought some ratchet clamps made for the purpose, so that when I had glued the tongue and put the boards together I could tighten everything up and let it set. Although the clamps were really tight, some of the boards were still not as tightly together as they could be. In the end, I found the best way was to knock the boards together using a hammer and an offcut of flooring. This seemed to get everything really tightly together. The problem here is that when you get close to the wall of the room you don’t have enough room to use a hammer. I tried using a ‘pull bar’ without much success – it just seemed to damage the boards too much. But all in all I’m pleased with the job and wouldn’t hesitate to put timber flooring in the other rooms of the house.

With regard to the direction of the boards in the cloakroom, I decided to keep them running in the same direction as the hallway and to use a threshold too. Having laid the flooring in the hall, it looked a bit odd when you opened the cloakroom door to see the boards going the other way. The chances are nobody else would ever have noticed, but I know it would really have got to me after a while.

Many thanks for all your advice – I couldn’t have done the job without you.

Ian R

New: Planning to Install a Wooden Floor?

Planning to install a wooden floor?

"How do I install the last row?"..... "My room is part chipboard, part concrete. What do I do?".... "Can I install a wood floor in a kitchen?".... “I've got underfloor heating, can I have wood flooring?".... "Do I glue or float my wood floor?".... . "The pack says to glue it, the supplier says nail it. Now what?".... "I've got two dogs and four kids, my wife likes wood flooring, what do you suggest?".... "How do I know how much wood to buy?".... "There are Marley tiles, can I glue a wood floor on them?”....

Wood You Like's Wooden Floor Installation Manual - everything you need to know about DIY wooden floor installation Just a small collection of questions that has found its way to Wood You Like's inbox over the last 5 years. After answering all questions individually the owners/directors have now created a comprehensive manual on installing natural wooden floorboards for diy-ers based on these frequently asked questions. The manual covers all basics from what to note when selecting your own natural wooden flooring, the schedule of works, three different installation methods to the easy maintenance principles that will keep your floor healthy and beautiful and much, much more.

Installing a wood floor isn't rocket science - all it needs is some common sense, patience, the right preparations at the right time and of course quality materials and the right tools. Wood You Like's Installation Manual for Wooden Flooring covers it all: including tricks of the trade to install your own floor like a professional!

Read on.....
and order your copy today!

Keeping your wits about widths

When you need to determine the size of the expansion gap you have to keep around the whole perimeter of the floor, there are a few "rules of thumb". Specially with Solid Oak flooring: 3 - 4 mm gap per meter width of the room. Why? Because that is how much per meter wide Solid Oak can expand during the seasonal changes in air humidity.
It does sound like a simple and easy to follow "rule". Until we received a phone call last week from a desperate DIY-er. He had kept himself to the rule, his room was 4 meters wide and had kept an expansion gaps all around of 18mm but the Solid Oak boards (secretly nailed directly on to joists) had started to lift up in two areas. What could be the reason for this, he had checked for leaks and hadn't found anything suspicious.
When we asked some further questions it turned out that indeed his room was only 4 meters wide, but the joists run parallel the long wall - a massive 21 meter long wall (spread over 3 connecting "rooms") Meaning that over 21 meter "long" the new Solid Oak floorboards run row next to row next to row (perpendicular to the direction of the joists), creating in fact a 21 meter wide area of flooring.
In this case the length of the room had effectively turned into the width of the room and another set of "Rules of Thumb" should have been followed:
never install Solid Oak floorboards in a room wider than 6 meter without adding extra expansion gaps (by ways of installing thresholds or flat dividers in the most logical places, for instances where two rooms have been knocked into one and still have "pillars" or small parts of the old wall)
So, keep your wits about widths and realise that with installing wooden floors the actual width of the room sometimes has to be measured along the length of the room, it all depends on how you are installing your floorboards: lengthways or widthways!

Why not to use DPM over existing floorboards.

We recently received the following question


I'm planning on laying a wooden floor throughout the ground floor of my house (a 1930's terrace), on top of the existing suspended floor boards. I've read your guide and now feel much better prepared!

That said, I do have one question. You state (quite clearly) that when laying a new wooden floor on top of existing floorboards, you should not use a DPM because it might cause condensation between it and the underfloor. But if I don't use a DPM then surely this moisture would just pass into the base of the new wooden floor, potentially causing problems there instead? I'm a little confused on this point! Any chance you could clear this up for me?

Many thanks


Non-concrete/screed Floors

Thank you for your question.

The reason for not using a DPM when installing onto existing floorboards is that this would block the normal ventilation that should exist underneath the existing floorboards (the void which should have air gaps in the walls). Any moisture that normally evaporates harmlessly through the boards into the air will be trapped against the DPM and might cause rotting of the existing floorboards and even your joists.
Using a normal foam underlayment in these cases makes sure the moisture - every home has more or less moisture during the seasons - will now still be able to evaporate through the whole construction.

When your underfloor is level a 2-3mm foam is sufficient. If you need more sound-insulation it's best to use a thicker underlay (brown roll in picture, also available with DPM attached to it for concrete floors).

Whatever kind of underlayment you need, don't cheapskate with the materials you use: it'll cost you in the end (inferior materials = more time correcting plus the end result of your natural real wooden floor could sound like a 'plastic' Melamine Laminated floor).

Constantly updating our guides


It is thanks to serous DIY'ers like Richard we are able to constantly update our guides when they feel/think information is missing or we could have explain items better. Being professional installers of wooden flooring does sometimes mean we overlook the fact that some terms or methods are daily tasks for us but not for our clients.

We love your input on these matters, so feel free to help us help you.

Solid Floors - between a rock and a hard place

In a previous article you can read what we think about 'Cheap Offers' in Solid wood flooring and what to note. We recently received a question where the buyer ended up between a rock and a hard place.

Solid short lengths on chipboard?

Hi, i am looking to fit solid oak flooring in my lounge (18mm x 125mm x 300-1200mm lengths) the lounge is 6m x 4m, the floor is of chipboard, all skirtings will be removed, what is the best way of fitting this type of oak flooring.???

Mr E.

Double trouble!


Hi Mr E.

Thank you for your question. You're between a rock and a hard place I'm afraid.
9 times out of 10 these type of solid floors have too many short lengths in the pack - and only 1 long length. If that hadn't been the case you could have installed this floor using the floating method on foam underlayment and glueing the T&G's correctly.

In this case you should fully bond the floorboards with flexible adhesive - if it wasn't for the case that modern chipboard (water resistant/repellent) don't bond with the adhesive! Secret nailing on chipboard is never a good idea (the chipboard will 'explode' due to the force and angle of the nails).

So, dilemma. These type of products is what we call: getting the 'short end of the stick'

Not sure if this is still possible, or if you want this: but best to return the product to the supplier and opt for a higher quality floor that can be installed floating without causing you problems and giving you a better result.

Hope this helps

Kind Regards
Wood You Like Ltd

A wide selection of quality natural wooden flooring: From Basic Oak to Bespoke can be found in our secure webshop

Difference between HardWaxOil and Oil and Wax

Last week we received an interesting question, of which the answer is long overdue to be turned into a new article. This, we hope, will make amends to it.

What is the difference between single oil and Hardwax oil? I am particularly interested in finding a very 'natural' non-chemical product. Thanks.

HardwaxoilBlanchon HardWaxOil is a two-in-one product: oil - which penetrates the wood - for long term protection, wax for the wear and tear layer to protect the wood from dirt and drips

Eukuoil1-1 Single Oil: oil for long term protection, which needs a second product - like one coat Premium HardWaxOil or StepStop wax-polish - to create the wear and tear layer to protect the wood from dirt and drips.

Like HardWaxOil the single oils contains natural ingredients.

In earlier days it was quite normal to finish a floor with a deep sealer and then to apply two coats of carnabaux wax. Because of changing VOC (Volatile Organic Compounds) regulations this sealer is no longer allowed.
Manufacturers, like Osmo, Blanchon and Saicos, have created HardWaxOil with natural ingredients to replace the old method, to save the environment and time for installers.

HardWaxOil on tropical wood species can very easily give a patchy result due to the fact the wood itself is 'oily'. Although HardWaxOil manufacturers used to mention that their product was not very suitable on tropical woods, this statement disappeared from most of the instructions in recent years - simply because every company wants to sell as much as possible of their own products for as many as possible applications.

Our experience with both finish types on tropical wood species shows that Single and StepStop or one coat Premium HardWaxOil does tend to give a better result than two coats of HardWaxOil.

It is for that reason we recommend to use HardWaxOil natural or any of the available colours in this range on Oak and other non-tropical wood-species and Single Oil = "Tropical Combo" for tropical wood species to get the best results.

Although Single Oils are also available with colour pigments, why would you want to colour a tropical wood? Tropical wood is often chosen for its own rich and warm in colour appearance, and in our eyes changing this would be a shame. But that just our opinion of course.

Don't use cork strips to fill your expansion gaps!

Some issues keep recurring: cork strips among them.

A few days ago we received the following email:

"I realise the importance of leaving an expansion gap around a wooden floor (oak parquet in my case) but can you tell me why we are told to insert cork strips around the edge? Surely the cork is only taking up valuable expansion room. Is it ok to  just leave a 10mm gap all around?"

This was our (recurring) answer on this subject:.... Read more

Mind the gaps

This week we received the following question in regards of repairing/restoring a parquet floor (see our 7 easy steps wood-guide for more tips and practical advice).


We have laid reclaimed parquet flooring in our lounge and dining room (which is currently one big room), and now we are starting to look at sanding and finishing it. Thanks - your website was very helpful! The sanding advice is nice and clear.

One thing though - because it is reclaimed, the blocks didn't always fit perfectly together; there are some small gaps. I know that after sanding, the sand-dust can be used to fill in these gaps, but is there a specific filler product to use as well? Bearing in mind that the area is very large (at least 9m x 4m), what would be the easiest way to fill all the gaps?

And another question - is it necessary to sand the floor lightly between each coat of HardWaxOil or varnish?

Thank you!

Our answer was as follows:

Thank you for your question and your compliments.

You can indeed fill all gaps, even in a large area like yours, but it really depends on how thick your blocks - or in other words how deep the gaps are.
We recommend Bona Kemi Mix & Fill. If you have many deep gaps it would be best to mix a small amount of the product and fill the gaps one by one with a spatel.
If you have many small and not too deep gaps (like with 10mm parquet flooring without T&G) you could mix a larger amount of product and 'plaster' this over the whole floor.

Sanding with grit 120 will remove all excess filler from your floor. If you plan to finish the floor with varnish or lacquer another sanding with grit 150 is needed.
HardWaxOil doesn't need sanding in between, if you apply the second coat within 36 hours - sanding between applying varnish layers depends on the brand, so always read the instructions on the tin and follow them!

Hope this helps
Kind Regards
Wood You Like Ltd

Q and A's on how to lay a wooden floor 5 - problem solving

Our most popular article: "How to lay a wooden floor, keep it simple" has a total of 3 pages of further Q and A's, in our opinion becoming too laborious for everyone to have to go through. We all know every home, every situation, every interior design style and/or wishes are different so no article on its own will ever answer all questions, but we can but try.

In this (and other) article we have grouped Q and A's from the original article per, we think, related subjects.

Problem Solving
We had 90 sq m 18mm Oak T&G floating floor laid on screed this April. The wood planks are of various lengths, same width. The flooring was stored in its original packing in a heated room from December 2006 until April 2007. The carpenter stated it was fine to lay it straight out of the boxes as they had been in a heated room long enough. The carpenter used extra strong glue at the joints. We went for a floating floor because we wanted to lay underlay.

Unfortunately, gaps have appeared at the joints in some areas. In some cases these are up to 8mm wide, basically the joints have come apart. They seem worse, near the radiators. Same gaps appeared soon after the floor was laid. However, some large ones have appeared in the last few weeks since the heating has been on more constantly.

What can we do to remedy this?
Any advice will be greatly appreciated. Gugs

A: Dear Cugs
For a whole discussion and proper advice form various professional please see your own question from 31 October at the DIY-not Forum (with a popular flooring forum)
A rather good forum in our opinion.

Q: I am about to fit a solid oak floor in a room approx 4.25m x 4.25m. I had the concrete floor levelled a couple of weeks ago and I have already taken delivery of 18mm thick solid oak boards each 150mm wide. I was planning on gluing the floor straight down onto the levelled floor assuming that there was no moisture problem as the concrete had been in place for nearly 30 years with a natural floor covering which always appeared dry.

However, the levelling compound has now dried with a crazy-paving like cracking pattern all over it and I am now concerned about the suitability of the floor for direct gluing. I can't really raise the level any further with anything as thick as ply or battens so I was considering using a self-adhesive underlay. Is this kind of underlay suitable for a solid rather than engineered floor or can you recommend another solution?
Thanks, Chris.

A: Hi Chris T.
Can I ask a question first: before applying the leveling compound did you prime the concrete floor? I think the concrete floor absorbed too much moisture from the compound which resulted in the crazy-paving cracked effect.

The self-adhesive underlay is one option, but since your underfloor is now level and your floorboards are wide enough you could also opt for floating installation on 3mm Combi-underlayment.
Hope this helps

Q: Thanks for the reply.
The old floor covering was glued down with some kind of flexible adhesive and they removed as much of it as possible before covering the floor in PVA. After this was dry (a week or so), the compound went down.
Perhaps the PVA and the compound didn't get on with each other?

Anyway, the compound appears to be stuck to the floor OK, just cracked. I was considering a liquid DPM and then glue but having seen this self-adhesive underlay it seems like a much easier option and with no risk of the sub-floor breaking up when the wood moves.

Using underlay, whether self-adhesive or not I was just trying to picture what happens as the wood moves as there doesn't seem to be anything to stop the boards from cupping or bowing other than their connection to the neighbouring board. At least with glue, I imagine it offers a little encouragement to stay flat.

I must say, if I do go down the underlay route, the self-adhesive stuff sounds easier to use as long as it's as good. At least it removes the danger of getting glue on the surface and you don't need to clamp the floor as you go. It's just hard to find a first-hand review of the stuff as most advice on the web seems to stop at secret nail or glue.

Thanks again for your advice. Chris.

A: Hi Chris
The weight of the wood itself will normally 'keep it in place' without creating extra movement. All wood works, no matter how installed. If you humidity reaches a too high level even glued down boards will buckle and if the humidity gets too low the boards will shrink, that's nature for you.

Self-adhesive underlayment (the right brand - watch out for inferior 'copy-cats') is a good product, but rather expensive and the first time round tricky to use.

Glueing the board fully to a crumbling concrete/screed floor is definitely asking for trouble.
Hope this helps

Q and A's on how to lay a wooden floor 4 - finishing touches

Our most popular article: "How to lay a wooden floor, keep it simple" has a total of 3 pages of further Q and A's, in our opinion becoming too laborious for everyone to have to go through. We all know every home, every situation, every interior design style and/or wishes are different so no article on its own will ever answer all questions, but we can but try.

In this (and following) article we have grouped Q and A's from the original article per, we think, related subjects.

Finishing touches
Q: Hi we are going to lay solid wood flooring from the hall into the kitchen, then put new skirting boards on so we don't have to use any trimming around the edges but I'm wondering what do we do when it comes the door ways? How do we do the edging in the frame of the doors, as we obviously can not put skirting there!

Please Help! Jenny

A: Hi Jenny
The simplest and neatest way is to undercut the door-posts and architraves to slide the floor under. Makes sure you also allow for expansion gap underneath the doorpost, so don't cut it to shallow.

Hope this helps

Q: am planning to install an oak floor in my bedroom. What I am worried about is the doorway. Will I, with the underlay, end up:

  1. having a step between the bedroom floor and hallway floor - how can this be overcome?
  2. having to saw off bottom of the door or get a new door ?

Many thanks John F

A: Hi John F
You could use a solid ramp threshold to protect the edge of the floorboard in the doorway which also creates a gradual step from the hallway to the bedroom.

As for your bedroom door, both options are feasible , it's down to personal preferences (or skills). A proper jig-saw and proper measuring how much should be cut off the door is not really difficult, removing old layers of paint from the hinges to remove the door out of it is mostly the biggest 'pain'.

Q and A's on how to lay a wooden floor 3 - materials

Our most popular article: "How to lay a wooden floor, keep it simple" has a total of 3 pages of further Q and A's, in our opinion becoming too laborious for everyone to have to go through. We all know every home, every situation, every interior design style and/or wishes are different so no article on its own will ever answer all questions, but we can but try.

In this (and following) article we have grouped Q and A's from the original article per, we think, related subjects.

I would like to put down solid oak flooring upstairs on top of the existing floor (90mm-18mm – various lengths). I am going to level the existing floor with layers of hardwood plywood and I am thinking of putting 6mm fiberboard underlay for acoustic reasons. I am considering a floating installation, however, a number of websites state that NO solid wood flooring can be floated.
Hoverer, if it is suitable for floating do you think it will:

  • educe the amount of squeaks and creaks that hardwood floors develops over time,
  • be as long lasting as the nail down or glue down floor.
  • have some important advantages and disadvantages to the other fitting options.

Thank you in advance. Best, Konrad

A: Hi Konrad
The opinions on floating solid wood floors vary indeed. We - and our manufacturers - have no problem with floating solid wood floors, as long as certain rules are followed.

One of them is - unfortunately for you in this case - the width of the boards: narrower than 110mm means glueing them down.
You can use the same preparations you're planning now, use a suitable parquet adhesive and fully bond the floor to the subfloor you've made.

Q: Thank you very much for your help. I am inclined to go with your excellent suggestion. I would like to have a stable floor but I am also concerned with the footsteps sound (especially upstairs).
Just one more query if you don’t mind. From the DIYnot forum I learned that you are familiar with the Sika Silent Layer Mat installation. With this method, being a semi-floating one, do you think I can:

  • install the floor continuously between rooms without dividing up the floor;
  • install sliding door wardrobe on it.

Great thanks again. Regards, Konrad

A: Hi Konrad
The Sika Silent Mat is one solution indeed. Another one would be the Elastilon 'self-adhesive' sound-insulation underlayment.

Q: Hi,
Thank you for your reply. Regarding the Elastilon underlayment or the Sika mat: would they act like DPM causing the existing wooden subfloor to sweat? Konrad

A: Hi Konrad
The Elastilon comes without DPM and is therefore very suitable to use on existing floorboards or 'subfloors' of sheet material like plywood or chipboard.
We suggest you use the Elastilon 'Strong' which is the most suitable for narrow strips.

Q: Your site is of great help.
We're planning to lay oak flooring onto a new concrete floor which has dpm and insulation.

Are the basic steps:

  1. Ensure concrete floor is level - if not use latex screed
  2. Lay vapour barrier or underlay
  3. Lay hardboard
  4. Glue or fix boards to plywood

Is there a need to secure the hardboard to the concrete with adhesive or fastners? Thanks in advance, Al

A: Hi Al
If your boards have T&G, are 100mm wide or wider and your concrete floor is level there's no need to install plywood for installation purpose.
You can install the new floor floating, using a Combi-underlayment that contains a DPM layer, glueing all T&G's and leave an expansion gap around the perimeter of the room.

That's all you need in fact.

Q: Hi
I am going to be laying a solid wood floor on concrete that is very old - 40 yrs min i think. i have a few questions:

  • I want to face fix and glue onto 12mm ply. what is the best glue to use?

  • I will be laying the air bubble and foil insulation which is 4mm thick under the ply. do i need to lay acoustic underlay on top of the ply?

  • I hope to use 180mm sawn oak boards - planks basically with no t&g. do i need to do anything special with this type of wood ?

  • what is the difference between this wood and t&g. is the t&g option better ?


thanks very much for your help.

john paul


A: Hi John Paul
If you glue down you can't use another underlayment between ply and boards. The best adhesive to use would be a flexible adhesive (like Sika T54, Lecol MS250 or Mapei P9910K)

Make sure the Oak boards are dried to floor standard (moist content in the wood between 9 - 11%) and can acclimatise in the room you plan to have them installed in.

Difference between your boards and T&G boards: T&G's can be installed floating, secretly nailed or fully glued down, boards without T&G should be glued and pinned down (as you plan to do).
Hope this helps

Q: My ground floor is covered in herring bone parquet which I believe to be paranna pine laid about 60 years ago. In some places gaps have appeared between the blocks. I've been told that the usual filler is sawdust (from sanding the floor, which I've done) mixed with some adhesive.

Is this correct and if so what's the best type of adhesive to use?

Once the gaps are filled I intend to re-seal with a hard waxoil and I'd like to keep the floor as light as possible. I assume your normal stuff won't darken it too much? Peter P

A: Welcome Peter P
The best product to use for filling gaps in parquet floors is special wood-filler like Lecol7500 Blanchon Resin Filler, not white pavc wood glue.
Mix it with the sand dust from the original floor to reduce colour differences as much as possible.

Natural HardWaxOil will, like any natural finish, darken the floor a little bit. How much you can test by wetting a little piece of bare - sanded - wood, this will 9 times out of 10 the end colour after applying a natural, clear finish.
Hope this helps

Q: I'm fixing to install a bamboo tounge & grove wooden floor over a plywood sub floor. I was going to nail it using a finishing nail gun or should I use another type of nailing system? What about drilling & then nailing? I was hoping not to have to nail every board but from reading this forum every board has to have at least 2 nails. Can the tongue & groove be glued & lay as a floating floor? Or can the tongue & groove be glued and nail every 12"?

A: Hi Lucy, welcome
Depends on how wide your bamboo boards are, normally around 90mm? That is to narrow to install floating, but glueing them down with parquet adhesive would be another (better?) option.

In our experience Bamboo has very tiny T&G and might splinter/break very easily when nailing them and yes, every board has to be nailed every 30 - 35 cm.
Hope this helps

A: Thanks for the advise. The planks are 3 3/4" wide and I was going to do a floating floor because I felt that this was the easiest way and I'm doing it myself with my daughter but if you say I can't i will glue it.

Thanks again. Lucy

Q: Hello
I'm after some advice on the best way to install a solid oak floor.

I am fitting 120mm wide T&G oak on top of a slightly uneven plywood floor in a living room (6m x 4m) on a first floor above a bedroom and want to reduce the sound transmission to the floor below as much as I can.

After looking at other posts I was considering using fibre boards to level the existing floor and then fitting the oak flooring using the floating technique and gluing the T&G.
Would this solution work ok or can you recommend a better solution?
M W.

A: Hi M W
Fibre boards should be ok to use, or you can use Timbermate Duratex (no DPM) 5mm for extra sound insulation. In our experience it reduces the sound of footfall better than the fibre boards.

Q: I am planing to install a solid wood floor on concrete. Ive had to remove some old tiles which have left the concrete black but dry.

I was sold Gutoid Parkett S11 adhesive and Stopgap F76 waterproof membrane with the wood. However, I haven't read anywhere that its necessary to put membrane down if I'm glueing, do I need to? (id rather not if poss). If I do then can I put the glue directly onto the membrane?

I'm also a bit concerned as I bought all this stuff 2 years ago and have just noticed that the glue and membrane has a shelf life of 12 months.
Any advice would be much appreciated as im really confused now.
Guy Rowland

A: Hi Guy, welcome
Dates on products are there for a good reason: their quality deteriorates rather quickly once they pass their 'use-by' date. Bin it - ecofriendly!, is all I can say.

What is the width of your new floor boards? If wider than 100mm then the easiest and simplest option is to buy combi-underlayment, PVAC wood-glue and to install your wood floor using the floating method.
Hope this helps

Q: Hi Karin H

Thanks for your rapid response (on a bank holiday as well)

I thought I should probably bin it. The boards are 12cm wide, but there are a lot of short boards, maybe 25% under 50cm long (but only just, and I didn't have any problem avoiding a pattern when I laid upstairs).

Another concern is that the concrete floor is not completely level and bulges in places. What do you recommend to sort this out?

A: Hi Guy
One of our contacts wrote an article on preparations of the underfloor on this FAQ & News site, see here.
Especially bulges are tricky when not leveled, specially with many short lengths. The floor will see-saw all over the place. So best thing to do is making sure the concrete floor is made level.

Hope this helps
Wood You Like Ltd (not really into bank holidays anyway ;-))

Q and A's on how to lay a wooden floor 2 - preparations

Our most popular article: "How to lay a wooden floor, keep it simple" has a total of 3 pages of further Q and A's, in our opinion becoming too laborious for everyone to have to go through. We all know every home, every situation, every interior design style and/or wishes are different so no article on its own will ever answer all questions, but we can but try.

In this (and following) article we have grouped Q and A's from the original article per, we think, related subjects.

Q: Lifted old parquet flooring. How can I remove bitumen before laying?

A: With a lot of elbow grease I'm afraid. Chisel off as much as possible and remove last bit with petrol - kerosene (very, very careful with this!!!!)
Any residue of bitumen will effect the bonding time of any modern adhesive type (like Lecol5500 or B92 Stycobond): instead of 4 - 5 hours it can take up to 24 hours before it holds properly and you can sand over it.

Q: Hi there
We've just built a new house and have had the heating on for the past number of weeks. We tested the moisture level of the concrete the flooring will go on at it's currently 4%. The wood for the floor has been in the house for the past 2 weeks.
Would we be ok to go ahead and lay the flooring now?
Thanks Avril

A: Dear Avril
You have to wait a bit longer we're afraid. The moist level in the concrete should be 2% or less before you can install the wood floor.

Rule of thumb: every inch (2.5 cm) of concrete/screed takes approximately 30 days to dry.

Q: In that I am totally inexperienced at this, I humbly engage your patience.
Would I need to remove the old flooring before laying the new or could I do a layover? My house was built in 1911; the panels have not been changed since the origination
Thank you Bobbie

A: Dear Bobby.
If your existing floorboards are level (un-cupped and sound) you can install your new floor on top of it without any problems.
We recommend you use a foam underlayment for sound-insulation, leave expansion gaps all around of min. 10mm.

Hope this helps

Q: Hi,
I'm planning to install 20mm solid oak T&G into my kitchen. The room is 8m x 3m total size, but half is well ventilated suspended (400mm joist spacing), and the other half is concrete (30yrs old, dry).
I want to lay the boards parallel to the shorter wall, to try to give the impression of a wider room.
As luck would have it, the heights of the concrete and joists do actually match, so I don't have any making up to do there, but I'm not sure whether to:

  1. Lay directly onto whats there; I would have to noggin all the joists first because they run in the 'wrong' direction. I was going to secret nail to the joists but then when I get to the concrete I suppose I'll have to glue?
  2. Counter batten the entire lot and then secret nail the whole lot to these. Unfortunately though this would raise the whole floor by the batten depth (at least 20mm?), and the head height is already 'snuggish' in the concreted half of the room. Also this would give a nice trippable step coming into the room...

I realise I'll have to live with a compromise somewhere though, I just wondered what you would do if it was your place?
Cheers, Tom

A: Hi Tom, welcome
We would make sure there is one type of underfloor, using sheets of hardboard (glued to concrete, nailed to floorboards). This will also solve your problem of installing the new boards in the same direction of the old boards.
Then, depending on your preferences you could either glue the new floor to the hardboard or install floating using a foam underlayment.
Hope this helps.

Q: Hi, I want to lay 23 m2 of solid oak T&G flooring, the existing floor is a concrete one, with hard vinyl tiles layed down on bitumen. what would you recommend? If I take up the vinyl tiles I know it will be a real pain getting up the bitumen, but if i lay the oak floor floating, will I have problems with it coming apart?

A: Hi Lee, welcome

If the vinyl tiles are stuck down well, the underfloor fairly level and your solid Oak boards are wider than 110mm then we would install a floor in this circumstances floating on a combi-underlayment, glueing all T&G's correctly.
Hope this helps

Q: Hi, thanks for the quick response. Unfortunately the floor is a solid oak,18mm thick, by 83mm wide random plank length, so I assume laying it floating is a no-no. would it be possible to glue it to the existing vinyl tiles, provided they were stuck down well?

A: Hi Lee

We're afraid not. The structure of the tiles will not allow the adhesive to bond correctly. alternatively you could screw plywood ontop of it first and then glue the wood floor on to that.

Q: Hi Karin, thank you again. Ive decided to fetch up the existing vinyl tiles. I'm either going to use elastilon strong over a DPM, or use a primer and a liquid batten such as sikabond T2.
Which method would you recommend? And do I have to remove all the bitumen residue from the concrete before using a primer?
Many thanks for your patience!

A: Hi Lee

The more bitumen you remove the better it is. Using Elastion also has the advantage of tackling minor unevennesses in the underfloor, but for the rest it is personal preference what to use.

Q and A's on how to lay a wooden floor 1 - methods

Our most popular article: "How to lay a wooden floor, keep it simple" has a total of 3 pages of further Q and A's, in our opinion becoming too laborious for everyone to have to go through. We all know every home, every situation, every interior design style and/or wishes are different so no article on its own will ever answer all questions, but we can but try.

In this (and following) article we have grouped Q and A's from the original article per, we think, related subjects.

Q: Hi there,
I have got to lay flooring through out the entire ground floor of a house, is there a sequence to laying the solid flooring with four different lengths.
Thanks Terry

A: Hi Terry
Not specifically. It's even better to avoid a repeating sequence for the following reasons:
a) will look odd in the end (artificial)
b) might create a pattern every two three rows making the whole floor unstable (i.e. prone to more movement).

Q: hi there , just bought parquet flooring,and I'm laying it (brick affect), plus my room is an odd shape, just wondering is there a certain place to start.
thanks chris

A: Hi Chris

Depends in fact on how odd the shape of the room is (not straight walls, octangle?). Best is to try to imagine how the pattern would look near the walls if you would start in the exact middle of the room.

Best 'direction' would be where you enter the room to have a 'normal' focus point for the eyes.

Q: Hi, Silly question but I've been reading loads about how to install a wooden floor onto an existing wooden floor and I'm probably going to try the secret nailing method. (Here comes the silly question)...Do I have to nail all the floorboards? I only ask because I was wondering, how will the floor be able to expand and contract if it's nailed to the floor underneath?? Sorry if this sounds really daft but just want to clarify the situation.
Many thanks Chris J

A: Hi Chris
First of all, silly questions don't exist (only silly answers ;-))

Yes, you do have to nail all boards (every 40 - 50 cm but at least two nails per board) otherwise when the floor expands or shrinks the 'loose' boards can buckle or cup more easier.
Wood expands/shrinks due to changes in air-humidity during the various seasons, no matter what method you use for installation. The nails will hold them in place better to prevent gaps (when shrinking) or cupping (when expanding).
Hope this clarifies it for you

Q: I'm going to lay a real wood floor on concrete in hallway & joists in other 2 rooms any tips most appreciated as I've only laid laminate in the past. Andy

A: Hi Andy
Can I first redirect you to three other articles? If you still have further questions by all means ask them here again.

Installing floors onto joists
Type of underfloor is type of underlayment
One type of underfloor

Q: Hi,

really good information on your site...
We plan to put a solid wood floor (140mm wide oak planks) onto a concrete floor. House is 8 years old. Planning to do 3 adjoining rooms total of 42 m square. We've been given different advice - some fitters say glue straight to concrete, some say use underlay and glue planks together. Could you give us any advice on this, any help much appreciated.

A: Hi Hels
Both methods are suitable. Glueing the solid floor down depends on the condition and quality of the concrete underfloor (the 'weakest link')

We ourselves prefer the floating method (when the room isn't wider than 5 meters wide), installing a combi-underlayment and glueing (with PVAC wood-glue) all Tongues and Grooves.
Leave sufficient expansion gaps around the perimeter of the floor.
Hope this helps

Q: I will be installing a 3/4" X 21/2" walnut floor in 5 rooms and a hallway. My wife (ball and chain) wants me to lay the flooring without any t-moldings. Any tips for doing so? Steve

A: Hi Steve
All depends on how long your strip flooring is. If blocks up to 50cm long and presuming you will glue the floor down this can be done safely from one room into another without the use of thresholds. As 'feature', if you are installing a specific pattern like herringbone you could install the blocks straight - as 'soldiers' - in the doorway.

If longer and/or random length we definitely recommend treating every room separately and installing thresholds in the door ways, specially in the hallway where there is a different climate than in your other rooms.

Q: Hello,
We recently purchased a 1958 ranch home that has wood floors in the bedrooms. The previous owners had everything carpeted and didn't even know that the wood floors existed. We are going to install wood floors in the remainder of the house (entry, living room, dining room, sun room, kitchen & hallway.

My question is what way do we lay the hardwoods we are going to install? The wood in the bedrooms runs parallel when you walk through the door. My understanding is you lay floors perpendicular to the joists and in this case the floors are parallel with the joists.

Should we try to match the direction of the wood to the bedrooms in the rest of the house or should we follow the advice and have the wood go perpendicular to the joists when you walk in the front door.

Also, what direction is wood installed down a hallway? Should it go the length of the hallway or is it okay to have it going right to left?

We are just having such a hard time knowing if there is a standard process around this and we are getting mixed messages from a contractor. Thanks!! Tamiko

A: Dear Tamiko
It's always best to install the boards with 'the light' if possible. When existing floorboards you want to install over already go the same way as you want your new boards to go you'll have to install hardboard or plywood first to prevent movement - rocking etc.

As for hallways, go length ways, that's easiest on the eye when you enter your house, specially when you have a narrow hall.

Q: I am about to lay solid oak T&G floor onto oak joists in an old house (loft conversion). Each board is 13cm wide and 2.5cm thick, varying lengths.
There is no existing flooring (it seems to have been removed a long time ago and replaced with plasterboard... very safe!) but the top surface of the joists seems flat and level.
There is no ceiling below (i.e. exposed joists and board can be seem from below)

Should i float the T&G over the joists, or hidden nail into them, or even drill and screw through the top (plugging the sink with dowel and sanding flat)?

Should i contrive to have all the boards (i.e. including the odd short one) crossing a joist at some point in its length, or is it OK to have the odd short board suspended by only its T&G?

A: Hi Giles
If the joists are not further apart than 35 - 40 cm you can safely install the boards straight onto them, secretly nailing (in angle through the Tongue).

There is no need to have all boards end up a joist, as long as every board connects with at least 3 joists it's fine to haven them 'meet in the middle'
Hope this helps

Q: Hi, i am going to lay an engineered click oak floor in my lounge which is 6mtrs square.There are windows on the north and south walls and the door is on the east side. Which way do you recommend laying the boards,should it be from north to south to catch the light on the boards?
Thank you, Malcolm.

A: Hi Malcolm
You're spot on!
Always try to go 'with the light' especially when you have bevelled floorboards. This to prevent false shades when the sun in shining, plus the grain of the wood will show its best character this way.

Q: we are laying an oak floor in ur hallway, in one of your previous question you advised that you could use the floating method if the area was only small would this be suitable for a small hallway?

Q: We are about to fit an oak floor into our small hallway, do we have to glue the whole of the floor down to the concrete or can we use the floating method in this small space ?
Angus J

A: Welcome Tracey and Angus
Answering both questions at once: wooden floors with T&G's can be installed floating in small areas like hallways. Although you have to make sure you stagger the boards even if the length of the area is one or even shorter than a whole board otherwise the floor could be unstable.
Hope this helps

Q: When fitting boards in a hallway is it best to fit the boards across a samll hallway or along it, as we have a large number of doorways we are wondering how to get around these without it looking a complete mess
Angus J

A: Hi again Angus J.
Not knowing the exact situation I would opt for installing the boards in the longest way to avoid it looking strange so you 'walk' along the rows instead of creating a kind hop-scotch area.

Doors can be tackled more easily if you undercut the doorposts and architraves first to slide the boards under (something quicker done with normal T&G boards than with the 'click-system' types.
Hope this helps

Wood Floor Guides: how to, which products and more

Wood You Like quality wood products and services Over the last months we've compiled various Wood Floor Guides on various subjects and the list is growing.
Most guides contain easy steps on how to...., based on our own experiences and there for you. From "How to install your floor like a professional" to Case study on water damage. Many also contain a list of products we highly recommend, because we use them ourselves for the best results.

This page will be updated regular  - more guides in the pipe-line         

Check out our 160 Wooden Floor Installation Manual for Wooden Flooring - prefinished and unfinished floorboards

Wood You Like's Wooden Floor Installation Manual - everything you need to know about DIY wooden floor installation


Who else wants a floorcovering that becomes more beautiful over time? (Fact-sheet)

Request our Wood Flooring Info Pack containing various check-lists (for shopping, materials and preparations and much much more)

All about the Maturing of Wood-Species

7 Easy Steps To Repair/Restore Your Parquet Floor

3 Easy Steps to Clean and Maintain Your Parquet Floor

Which of these two wood floor finishes is best - oil or varnish?

Wooden Flooring and Water - a case-study (including an interview from the insurance services point of view)

Advice if you are buying real wood floors "11 key questions check-list"

FAQ Preparations

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We will answer it to the best of our knowledge and as quick as possible.

If relevant your question will be turned into a new post.

Or check out our Information Zone:

"Do you know how to immediately increase the value of your house and comfort of your home?"

"7 Easy Steps to Repair/Restore your Parquet Floor"

"3 Easy Steps to Clean and Maintain your Parquet Floor"

FAQ News and Novelties

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"Do you know how to immediately increase the value of your house and comfort of your home?"

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"3 Easy STeps to Clean and Maintain your Parquet Floor"

FAQ Maintenance and Care

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FAQ Installation

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Or check out our Wood Floor Guides:

"Do you know how to immediately increase the value of your house and comfort of your home?"

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FAQ Benefits

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"7 Easy Steps to Repair/Restore your Parquet Floor"

"3 Easy STeps to Clean and Maintain your Parquet Floor"